Oban

If you have been watching the TV programme following Timothy Spall going around the UK in a big dutch barge, you might recognise this picture!
We have caught up with them, just before they head off up the Caledonian Canal. Timothy and his wife Shane were on board, but we didn't get chance to meet, and exchange tales of the sea. Oh well, next time..........

Leg 30

Loch Craignish to Oban. Sat 21st August.

We plan to catch the tide going up the Sound of Jura to send us on our way. This means we don't need an early start. Time then to listen to the weather at 0810, and decide if its calm enough. The forecast has almost completely changed from the night before, so its a definite, we are off to Oban! We catch a bit of a shower as we come down the loch (Ivans turn to get wet!), then round the tip, and head North, and almost immediately we pick up the tide. So its foresail up, engine off, and sit back and enjoy the amazing scenery! Its like a panorama on a film, as the landscape all around us, slowly slips past (well, at a respectable 6 or 7 knots). Its stunning. The sun is out, and we don't get any more rain. On one stretch their is a bit of a swell on our stern, which makes it a bit rocky rolly, but small fry compared to the Mull of Kintyre!
We make good time, and pootle in to the marina at Kererra island, Oban about 2.00pm, and have had probably the most comfortable sailing, in the most beautiful of places.
The marina runs a ferry to Oban, and we get the 3.00pm one, and head off to start restocking the larders of food, and beer, ready for the guests we have coming to visit over the next few weeks.




The sea plane landed while we were there......



You can just make out Happy Daze.....its the big green one in the middle!

Leg 29

Ardminish Bay, Gigha to Ardfern, Loch Craignish Weds 18th August

Time to move on. We slip the mooring and we are soon motor sailing. A bit of low cloud over the hills, and as we head out into the Sound of Jura a big cloud comes across from the hills (Paps of Jura), and heavy rain completely flattens the sea - its weird when it does that - feels quite eerie!. Course, its me on watch, and I get a good soaking!! Sun soon comes out, and I dry off. As we approach the entrance to Loch Craignish, the tide is coming across the sound, from the West side, and some powerful current is creating eddies and mini whirlpools, which makes steering interesting briefly! The Loch itself is beautiful and peaceful, with Ardfern nestling at the head in a sheltered spot, where we re-fuel, shower, do laundry and stock up on food. The plan is to stay 24 hrs on the pontoon, move to an anchorage for the next night, then head out with the tide on up to Oban.

Then we get the weather forecast! Not good. Gales off the West coast of Scotland. We move up to the anchorage, a nice sheltered spot, and the wind certainly does get up. The evening forecast is saying force 9, 10 and even 11 in the area we are in. So we resign ourselves to a day at anchor (actually we found a nice secure mooring to use!). We spend all day Friday chilling and reading. The wind is quite high, with a few lulls, and we keep up with the forecasts. By evening, we think the worst has passed, and plan to go the next day.

Gigha

Mon 16th & Tues 17th August

We stayed in Gigha for a couple of days, exploring, beach combing, chilling. A small island community that really reminded us of Eday, so our thoughts start to really wander to our next adventure in life - re-building a croft! We climbed the 'mountain' of Creag Bhan (all of 100m!!) on a sunny day which gave superb views all around the Sound of Jura. Stunning.

Leg 28

Port Ellen, Islay to Ardminish Bay, Gigha Sunday 15th August
We rested up on Islay, and explored a little by cycle and foot. We did one short trip that took in 3 malt whisky distillaries!
The weather was much improved, and the day we headed off to Gigha was lovely, warm and sunny. A short hop across the Sound of Jura, to the East side of Gigha, and a shelterd bay with good moorings (in just 1.5m!), with a pier to pull up to in your dinghy and a bar selling cold beers! Heaven!
This was West coast of Scotland cruising in a much more relaxed style compared to the last two legs, and we were glad for the break!

Leg 27

Lamlash, Arran to Port Ellen, Islay Thursday 12th August
So we left Lamlash, on a forecast of 'NW 5 or 6, decreasing 4 or 5 later, moderate sea, occasionally rough in the North'. There was no wind in the bay, and we only planned to go to Campbeltown, to then catch the tide the next day, go round the Mull of Kintyre to Islay. The clouds cleared and revealed some of the hills of Arran as we left, all hunky dorey!!
We got a good start, so good, we decided we would head for Sanda Island, just off the Mull, anchor for the night in the bay, then go round the Mull the next day, rather than retrace our steps to Campbeltown. Well, as soon as we poked our nose out round the south end of Arran, the seas were up, the wind was up, and it started getting exciting!
Ivan took the helm, I dipped below, to look at our options! As we kept our course for Sanda, our option for heading to Campbeltown was out. Then as soon as we got near to Sanda, the tide started to take us West, the wind was getting stronger - gusting up to 20-25mph, and Ivan was loving it! I wasn't so much, and instead realised that anchoring was a no no, we were on our way to Islay, like it or not!
The wind got too much, and while we still could we got the sails down. It was my turn to helm, as Ivan had done a long stint, so for the next 2 hours, as we went round the Mull, I tried to steer from a sitting position, as I was too scared to stand, and see the full size of the sea we were in!! The spring tides were taking us at a speed of 8 knots round the mull with a head wind of 25mph, with gusts of 30-35mph. The resulting sea was enormous as it rushed to get over the outfalls of the Mull. The hardest job was keeping the course, as the wind was dead on the nose, and if we came beam on to the sea and she broached - heaven knows how we would have fared - I don't want to even think about it!!
Well, it seemed to take forever to get across to Islay, but we actually had the tide with us till the last couple of hours. The wind didn't let up though at all. We got to Port Ellen at dusk, feeling quite battered. It was about 63 miles and had taken best part of 12 hours! A very exciting trip, but not one that I would wish to repeat!!
Its always the way, that the photos we have are of pleasant calm weather! I wish I had taken a picture of this journey so you could see what I have tried to describe, but I don't need a picture to remind me of the sea that day, it will be imprinted on my memory for a long long time!!

Leg 26

Stonefield Castle Bay Hotel, Loch Fyne to Lamlash, Arran. Weds 11th August
After the final beach foraging for winkles by Ivan, it was time to head South. We had decided not to 'do' the Crinan Canal afterall. So we headed towards the East side of Arran. It was a bit windy, but we were ready to move on. A nice motor sail across the North edge of Arran, although the sea was a bit lumpy! Then the wind started to get up, so although we didn't need the engine, we perhaps could have done with a reef or two in the sail! Still, Ivan was loving it! We had taken the foresail down earlier, when the wind died a bit, but it wasn't long before the gusts of upto 32mph were scooting us along at 7knots with just the mainsail. I was below checking the course for most of this time, of course!! This bit did live up to the description that sailing on the west coast can be 'boisterous'!
With making such good time we were safely moored up by 2.00pm in Lamlash! It was still blowing a hooley, but we went across to the village and stocked up in the local co-op. We were both desperate for a shower, but just our luck that the showers, available at a local cafe, closed just one day a week - on Wednesdays!!

Scallop (Pecten maximus) Curry

(serving suggestion)

Scallop Curry - Criminal Act or Twisted Genius?

Further to the previous piece on curry houses I have for your perusal decided to include my recipe for scallop curry. This NFN traditional dish has been handed down through my family and indeed can be traced back to the early 16th century.

Ingredients:
1 onion
1 tin chopped tomatos
1 tin button mushrooms
3 heaped teaspoons Pataks madras paste
15-20 scallops

Method;
1. Chop onion, and soften in olive oil (extra virgin) over a low heat.
2. Add tin chopped tomatos
3. Add Pataks paste, to taste.
4.Add mushrooms
5. Add scallops
6. Simmer gently for 20 mins
7. Serve (please see picture for serving suggestion)

So there we have it!
Scallop Curry. Voila

The recipe is especially good for those strange folks who are none too keen on this particularly tasty mollusc as the meat becomes rather like very tender chicken. Alternatively, buy some chicken!

Dive Loch Fyne

Mon 9th August
So the day dawned clear n sunny. It was time to get wet!!
We donned our dive gear and happily stepped off the stern into the bay.......in search of lunch! 30 mins later we were back with a bag full of lunch in the form of some decent sized scallops! Yummy.
Well they didn't last long, and 3 hours later we were back in, this time in search of supper!!
And we were not disappointed! Absolutely brilliant to get in for a dive, and free lunch and tea a bonus.
Happy Daze!

Leg 25

Campbeltown to Tarbert, Loch Fyne. Sun 8th August
A lazy start to the day, waiting for a boat alongside to leave, and for the shop to open so we could get a big pan for anticipated crab and lobster catches!! Motor sail up the loch, in beautiful weather, with stunning scenery all around. This is just what we have been waiting for the whole trip really. We head for an anchorage just past Tarbert, near an ,island. we had dived earlier in the year. In the end we go around the back, and find that the hotel has put visitor moorings in. Very handy, so we tie up, get changed then head up for a beer - or two, with malt whisky chasers of course! A pleasant end to a lovely relaxed day sailing.

Curry House Facts

A tragic curry house incident in Peel (Isle of Man) set me to thinking the other day as to the facts and figures connected with my curry/life interface. Here for your consideration are those thoughts.
I believe I'm true in my recollection that the first curry house curry I indulged in was at the tender age of 17 years. Prior to that my only curry experience would have been my fathers national service curry's which consisted of 1 x tin curry powder, 4lb of raisins re-hydrated to the size of olives. Now if you're not keen on raisins this can be a problem! (sorry Dad).
Never the less, raisin poisoning to one side, first curry at 17. Since that time I have had a curry every week and it was not uncommon in my younger 'round town' years to have two a week. Now at the age of 47 that gives me 30 years at, shall we say, 50 curry's a year, a quick bit of maths gives a grand total of 1,500 curry hits. Now in all those 1,500 curry's I have only had to send one back. That was a week ago in Peel, Isle of Man. I unfortunately can't remember the name of the particular establishment but it's the only one in Peel - be warned. After a particularly tasteless Shikh Kebab starter the main course of chicken tikka balti and keema nan was disgusting. It tasted of gravy powder, grease and salt (the last ingredient being the mainstay of gravy powder). The owner disagreed with the excessive salt content but didn't contend the gravy powder comment.
We, last night in Campbeltown, had the best curry of the 1,500. Pure perfection. No other comment needed! The name
of this curry house is the Taj Mahal. OK, not the most original name but the food was unbeatable.
The strange thing is that out of 1,500 curry's the worst and the best should come together like that. This really is turning out to be the adventure of a lifetime!

Leg 24

Portpatrick to Campbeltown. Friday 6th August
The weather is good so we are off to Campbeltown today! We had thought of going to Islay, but it was a 60mile jaunt, and when we re-though things out we decided we would head up towards Tarbert and check out some scallop spots we went to earlier in the year on a dive trip! Its time we got in the water! There was a bit of a sea running, but the swell is northerly, and the wind is in our favour for once. The tide is with us, and we fly along at a good 6kn for most the way. We do motor sail though, as the wind eases off, but at least we are making good time. Its a bit misty but Ailsa Craig makes an appearance eventually! Then we can see the Mull of Kintyre (altogether now..... Mull of Kintyre.....!!). Ailsa Craig is one of the largest gannet homes in this part of the world, and we are rewarded with flocks of them flying past - very big, majestic birds making travelling fast seem effortless. We madde good time to Campbeltown and were moored up by about 3.30pm. Coming alongside a pontoon is getting easier with practice, which was just as well, as there was quite an audience this time!! Not a time to mess up!! We had heard good things about one of the local curry houses, and seeing as its Friday, we soon head off for an early tea to see what all the fuss is about! We were not disappointed! Absolutely brilliant. I would recommend the Taj Mahal to everyone. A1, first class food. What a contrast to Peel!

Portpatrick

We did a few walks in and around the area. The coastline was beautiful, and on one saunter we went along to Dunskey Castle which sits overlooking the channel, where the next stop is Donaghadee, Ireland.

Leg 23

Peel to Portpatrick. Tuesday 3rd August
We had a lovely calm night and anchor and were quite ready to continue haeding North. We had a bit of a lie in though, as we were planning to make the most of the tide to the Mull of Galloway. It was a grey day, but we could at least see the piece of land we were heading for, rather than just following a compass bearing. Once away from the harbour, and got the sails up, we even managed to turn the engine off!! Peaceful start to the day, but alas after an hour or so, the wind dropped and we were crawling along, so the engine was employed again, and then just to add to our frustration, the wind changed direction too so the sails had to come down!! As we approach the Mull, we pass over the bottom end of a very deep trench and the sounder measures 206 metres!! Wow! We scoot along the coast and into Portpatrick for tea time. The harbour is tiny! We settle on the North wall, and thankfully its very calm. The local pub sells a good beer, and fine food, so we make the most of both!

Isle of Man

In need of........

Peel. Sat 31st July to Mon 2nd August
We wanted a couple of days here, and couldn't have picked a better weekend. It was an Historic Boat Weekend, so the harbour was full (so we stayed in the bay) of lovely old boats, that went out for a short sail round the bay each afternoon! On shore, a few events were on. a competition to see who could throw a heaving line accurately (men) or furthest (women). We entered and both came third respectively - tho not without alot of go's!! A competition to build and paddle a boat across the harbour entrance was fun to watch - and they all made it in their own style!
After such a good curry on Monday, we headed for the only curry house in Peel in the evening, hoping for more good food. Boy were we disappointed. More of that later, but it was not good!
Sunday was carnival day. After smoked bacon sandwiches for breakfast (Peel smokery) a saunter round we watched the parade with a beer or two to help the viewing! A relaxed afternoon on board watching the old boats sail round the bay, then a wonderful fireworks display to end the day. We couldn't have picked a better weekend to fetch up in Peel!!!
Monday was a bus ride to Douglas, a ride on a horse drawn tram and food shopping - treats from M&S food hall!!

While we were in the harbour there were basking sharks everywhere it seemed. At one point there were about 6 just a few hundred yards away! Isle of Man is an international hotspot apparently!

Leg 22

Holyhead to Peel, Isle of Man. Friday 30th July
We had a day or so to chill in Holyhead, catch up with my parents, take on diesel etc. we decide to make the hop across to Isle of Man rather than go around the corner onto the North Wales coast, or along up the NW England coast. We feel as if Scotland in 'calling' and can't wait to get there!! So it was an early start. A dull grey day though. We manage a motor sail to start, and go well so turn engine off and manage a few hours of peace under sail alone - absolutely lovely! We know the Isle of MAn is ahead of us, but we can't see it due to the low cloud. Very frustrating as the approach from the SW is supposed to be quite spectacular with high cliffs etc! Well we do see it eventually when we are almost upon it, and then try our hardest not to get too close!! Just as we approach Peel we see a big basking shark - the 2nd one of the trip. We are too late to get into the harbour, so moor on one of the visitors berths. Its a very pretty town setting, with the castle, breakwater etc giving us good shelter. Look forward to getting ashore.

Leg 21

Pwllhelli to Holyhead. Weds 28th July
We had a day or so in the marina, then onto an anchorage outside in the bay so we could get an early start. So we headed off in the early light to get around to Holyhead. A good start under sail, with a squall to help us on our way towards Bardsey Island. But the wind soon dies, and we motor sail through Bardsey Channel. Its confused seas due to overfalls and tide, but once through it settles and its a straight line to Holyhead. The tide turns against us as we approach though, and its a painfully slow last 2 hours as we approach the harbour. We decide to anchor as the mooring buoys all look full, and close together. My parents are on shore to meet us, but its late so we make plans to meet up in the morning. We are bushed, so hit the sack pretty quickly and get a good nights sleep.

Leg 20

Fishguard to Pwlhelli Mon 26th July
We were up early and away by dawn, so nothing to report about Fishguard I'm afraid!
We headed due North, motor sailing, and were just getting settled to our watch routine of one hour on and one hour off, when we were approached by a big RIB. We were about to enter a live firing zone, and we had approx 30 mins to change course and get 10 miles away!! This was not good news, as it was a long leg and the last thing we needed was extra distance! Still, no choice, so we headed towards shore, and did probably an extra 2 hours of travel. It was an uneventful leg, as there was no wildlife to keep us interested, and although we knew the Snowdonia mountains were overlooking us, it was very low cloud so didn't see any of them!
We arrived at the marina entrance in good time, and made our approach to the marina to discover the entrance is VERY narrow. Fine, except that the tide is racing in at about 5 or 6 knots, so steerage is a joke! Bit like a water flume at the fun fair in a 22 ton log!! We were jealous of Anne and Rob going for a curry in Scarborough on Sunday, so as soon as we were moored up and showered we headed into town for a curry!!! And a fine one it was too!

Leg 19

Dale Bay to Fishguard Sun 25th July
We planned to go at 3.00am to get the tide right around the Pembroke coast, but we awoke to fog and absolutely no wind......so went straight back to sleep!! When we did wake, it was a beautiful sunny day, with a light breeze. So we decided to try this leg on the afternoon tide. We got a bit of maintenance on the steering done in the morning then set off mid afternoon and had a good start under sail. we picked up the tide off Skomer island, and really started to fly by the time we came to the Bishops Rocks lighthouse. We went through the inside passage at 11.2k - sideways!!! At that speed, it was thankfully over pretty quickly!!! The coast is beautiful - if you ever get the chance to go to the area you must get out on a boat and see the cliffs from the sea! We got into Fishguard at dusk, anchored up and hit the sack - a long but lovely day, and in the end we were glad it was foggy!

Leg 18

Padstow to Milford Haven. Friday 23rd July
We had an early start out of Padstow - this was to be our longest leg so far, and to be quite a way off shore too. We motored to start, and it seemed to take forever to get away from the Cornish coast! - although the coast along here was beautiful, with impressive cliffs. Once out of sight of Cornwall we spotted Lundy Island off the starboard beam, and no sooner did that fade, the Welsh coast appeared ahead! So we didn't really feel like we were all that much away from land!! We had dolphins with us for a good while again. This time we seemed to be in the middle of a a few different groups that just seemed to surround us over and over! We got into Milford Haven estuary at dusk, and by dark had anchored in the bay near Dale. Very peaceful after a very long day.