Ivans Epilogue

So there we have it. 'Job Done'. Thinking back now, a lot of the trip is one big blur. The myriad of ports and towns have become one, where people we met, things we saw have all been thrown into the same pot. Perhaps thats the way it should be? It suits me, anyhow.
What would I change? Well for one thing I would have left earlier. That would have given us enough time to get down to Scarborough and then back up to the Orkneys to have properly tied the knot, as they say. Also it would have given us more time to dwell in the nicer places. I would also like to have been able to control the weather, to have fair winds and flat seas with a wave of my omnipotant hand.
Other than that everything was hunky dory. Even though we were keen to reach our destination it was a pity it had to come to an end. As a lifestyle I would have been happy for it to go on for many years. Living on a boat is great. This I swear by the blood of my Gypsy Mother.
Was it what I expected? NO!! Looking through my rose coloured glasses with a mind crammed full of blue sky thinking, off we set. Reality was harder than expected. Long legs in rough seas take their toll. I wouldn't go so far as saying that the best part of sailing is reaching your destination but there were times of great joy when the entrance to a safe haven came into view. Just as joyous were the days when under sail, the pure poetry of making your next port using nature - unforgettable.
What Next?
Get ourselves established on the island. The static caravan is already there (what a job that was!) (serves the pikey right).
Sell Happy Daze. We want to get a good fast work boat - RIB or fast hard boat will have many more applications for an island like Eday. Happy Daze has done what I put her together to do, so off she goes. At some point we will be in the market for a 30+ ft yacht to do the Atlantic circuit. Another project to put a boat together for that job alone!
In the mean time we've got some heaps of stone to pile back up again. So once again, its 'Hi Ho, Hi Ho, Its Off to Work We go...'

Happy Daze folks.

Ivan

Leg 41

Tingwall to Eday. Sunday 12th September

We had a bit of a lie in, as it was a long (and exciting) day yesterday, and the tides to get across to Eday are not good til early afternoon. We enjoyed making landfall on mainland Orkney, having got there under our own steam! We are nearly at our final destination and it sure does feel good. Its a pleasant sunny morning, and after a mooch on the beach, we enjoy a relaxing coffee on board. We are both itching to get going and finish the journey. A short conversation with the piermaster encourages us to get going a little sooner too, as the forecast is for it to get very windy later on on the day.

The wind is starting to build, and we make fast progress out of Tingwall under sail, with quite a strong tide. We are heading for the South West corner of Eday. Thr trick is to get there at slack tide. If we are too early and catch the tide heading south we will be swept all the way to Kirkwall, without passing go!! This stretch of water is called the Falls of Warness and have some of the strongest tides in Europe - which is why there is a number of tide turbines being developed there as part of a European initiative (EMEC). On this day it is only just past the biggest spring tides of the year (!) and in our impatience to get to Eday, we get to the Falls of Warness a little early, and do catch some tide!

It is a really odd sensation to be motor sailing (again at quite high revs) in a stiff breeze (12-14mph winds) with the bow pointed due north, into the tide, and find yourself travelling at about 1.5 knots in an Easterly direction!! We are just on our 2nd day sailing around Orkney and we are properly experiencing what the tides can do!!!

We inch our way across into the lee of the land, and start making our way in a more orderly fashion toward the East side of the island, to the pier. We get there about 2.30pm, and are really chuffed that we have made it at last. There are 2 new visitor moorings in the bay, so we hook one while we sort out the fenders, then come alongside the pier, step ashore and jump up and down on land in glee!!

This is the intended final destination on our trip round the UK. We know it means we haven't done a full circle as it misses out the East coast of Scotland, and beyond, down to Scarborough, but at this time of year we haven't got the weather with us to get there and back before winter.

Leg 40

Scrabster to Tingwall. Sat 11th September

We were keen to get going, and so set off out of the harbour as soon as the boat was floating off the slip! A great big tanker had come in to fuel up and I thought we might not get past her stern, but we snook past and were away by about 9.00am. The plan is to go to Stromness. We should just catch slack water in Hoy Sound before it starts ebbing, if we aren't delayed on the way, and so we get the sails up as soon as we can. The tide is strong on our port beam as we go across the firth towards Hoy, and not only slows us down but takes us quite east of our course. By the time we are alongside the Old Man of Hoy, we are running a bit late for slack in the Sound, but we press on. The cliffs are amazing on this West side of Hoy, and as we tuck in close we get a real sense of how high they are. Fantastic. When you go past on the ferry you never really get that close or have time to really look at them.

We speed round the corner of Hoy into the Sound at about 5-6 knots, and so think we might have just made it before the ebb. But as I look across into mid channel I can see some white water on top of some waves - maybe not? We press on, keeping close to the shore of Hoy. Its not looking good though, as we slow down considerably. A sight to behold is that there are literally hundreds and hundreds of cormorants sitting on the water, waiting to dive in and feed. Perhaps that is a sign that the ebb has started! Before we know it we are in mid channel, and the sea is enormous. The ebb definitely has started, almost suddenly, and we are having difficulty controlling our direction of travel. Before we know it we are at full engine revs (testing all the repairs to the full!!!!) pointing in the direction we want to go, but actually travelling backwards at 2 knots!! Time for plan B. Ivan skillfully turns her to port and in a flash we are going back the way we came at almost 11 knots!

Phew.....that was a lucky escape.....Plan B is to keep going up the coast and go through Eynhallow Sound and head for Tingwall harbour, a little ferry pier and fishing harbour just a few miles from Kirkwall. We definitely missed the tide in Hoy Sound, if we don't hurry, we should catch it right to go with the tide through Eynhallow Sound.

It was a pleasant motor up the coast, round the Brough of Birsay, and past the giant cliffs and caves of Costa Head. We saw a few basking sharks too. We glided along Eynhallow Sound, with the tide, and got into Tingwall's little harbour just as the light faded. You would have thought we planned it that way!!!!

Scrabster

Monday 6th September to Friday 10th September

The weather was wild for the start of the week we spent in Scrabster, then it settled and the sun came out.
Ivan and Rob spent most of their time firstly tracking down a couple of flexible couplings, then fitting them, and shearing one again. Then re-thinking things. We got Happy Daze towed onto a slip, dried out and looked at the prop and discovered that one of the thrust bearings had gone completely, which answered the question of why the flexible couplings were shearing. So a new thrust bearing was ordered, and the flexible coupling was replaced with spacers made by Rob.
Anne & Rob hired a car, to go fetch the other car from Ullapool, so when we had transport we had a couple of little trips out. We went to John O'Groats, the beach, shops and looking at static caravans for us to transport to Eday!
By Friday tea time, all the parts were fitted, and Anne & Rob set off for Scarborough. We tested the prop shaft, the new coupling and bearing when she floated in the evening and she ran very smoothly - Happy Daze! We are off first thing tomorrow, heading for Stromness.
Theres not many that can say they have had a weeks holiday in Scrabster harbour!! Unplanned for us, but thats what this trip is all about!

Leg 39

Kinlochbervie to Scrabster. Sunday 5th September

The forecast is good for getting round Cape Wrath, but the weather is due to get a bit rough for the rest of the week, so we decide to go for it, and try to get to Stromness or Scrabster. It would be a long day, as its best part of 60 miles. We set off at 5.30 in the morning, so we don't have tide as we go round the Cape, and its a beautiful morning as we head out of Kinlochbervie. Its just me and Ivan on deck, as Anne & Rob have a bit of a lie in! The wind is good as soon as we head north, so we get the sails up, and have a good bit of a sail, making good time, although just as we get near the Cape, and Anne & Rob drag themselves out of bed (very early for them on a Sunday still, as its only 8.30!!) the wind dies, and we have to motor. The scenery is stunning though, and we feel glad to have got this far north, and 'go around the corner'. To me, it feels more of an achievement than Lands End, as not that many yachts venture this far!

We just get round the corner, when there is an almighty crashing sound.......we stop the engine, and Ivan inspects the damage. The flexible coupling between the gear box and the prop shaft has sheared. Shit. We have a spare tho, so Ivan and Rob get it replaced, and within an hour we are back motoring. We have drifted about a mile off the headland to the North West, and it takes an hour, against tide, to gain back the lost ground.

All seems to be going well, and we have motored for about 2 hours, when there is a repeat of the crashing sound! Shit again! The flexible coupling has gone again. There is no second spare. This time we are disabled, about 5 miles East of Cape Wrath, with tide against us for the next 4 hours, wind on the nose and the sea and wind is starting to get up a bit!

We have no choice but to call in a May Day. So, Ivan gets on the radio at midday, calls it in, and we are met by Thurso lifeboat 2 hours later. We get hooked up pretty quickly, and start the long tow to Scrabster harbour. As we get going, the wind increases and the seas get bigger so its not a very comfortable 6 hour passage by any means! We take alot of water over the decks and wheelhouse - a bit like a skipload being dumped on top of us every minute or so! Invariably some makes its way inside, especially through the front hatch and unfortunately all over Anne & Robs bed!
At 8.00pm we get tied up in Scrabster harbour. We are extremely grateful to the Thurso lifeboat crew for coming to get us on a Sunday, when I am sure they would have rather been at home with their families. Our first job in the morning is to get the lads some beers to say thank you for their time.
And then would you believe it, we get to the pub, and they have stopped serving food - we are too late - again!!! But, the staff take pity on us, and serve up soup and sandwiches, Happy Daze! What a Day!

Leg 38

Lochinver to Kinlochbervie. Sat 4th September
The forecast is for a force 4-5, then 6-7, but then so was yesterday when we had no wind at all! So we set off out of the marina, and there is a good amount of wind, and in our favour, so we get the sails up, turn the engine off and we're off!!
Rob loves it, trying to go as fast as possible, even if it is in the wrong direction!!
We get a good sail all day, and make good time to Kinlochbervie, arriving at the entrance to the small loch just at high water. We find Anne and Rob a nice sheltered bit of wall, and they drop in for a pretty good wall dive. Its a beautiful calm late afternoon as we pootle in to the harbour and tie up on the hammerhead of the pontoon, in the last space - its only a small bit of pontoon!
Showers all round, then off to find tea. So far we have not had too much luck with eating out while Anne & Rob have been with us, either we are too late, they are too busy, or they just haven't liked the look of us (must be Anne & Rob, can't possibly be me or Ivan!!!). When we get to the pub, we are told, that as a group of 14 had booked, and just sat down to order the chef may be too busy to take any more orders, even though we were 30 mins before they stopped taking orders! Just our luck! But, a bit of pursuading and we get to order food - Happy Daze!

Leg 37

Ullapool to Lochinver Friday 3rd September
Another flat calm sunny day, so we are off to see if we can find a dive for Anne and Rob in the Summer Isles. The sea is like a mill pond as we make passage for the islands. On the way we do a bit of research via iPhones and discover there is a shallow wreck that could be suitable. Once we get to the little bay, the only way to find it is to literally go look for it! So into the tender, Anne navigating with the iPhone, Rob peering over the side with a mask on and Ivan steering - and they actually see the wreck on the sea bed!!! Anne & Rob are soon in the water, and have a grand dive. The pick up is via the tender too - although a bit small to get in, the gear is chucked in and they fin back to the boat! Fun on and in the water had by all!
As we head up the coast to Lochinver, we are joined by a massive pod of dolphins - a real treat. Once in the harbour, there is a mackeral spectacle too - the water is literally boiling with fish, as there is a shoal in there feeding on all the small fry - amazing to see, but we don't catch any, as Anne n Rob veggie, so not an option for tea! A great day had by all.

Ullapool

Thursday 2nd Sept
The day dawned bright clear and windless. The view on the loch was stunning. Chris was immediately out on deck taking photo's and I was soon with him! I even got to have a go with his 'papparazzi' mega zoom lens! But today Chris is getting the bus, back to Fort William, to pick up his car and drive back to Nottingham. We have all had a great week. We had hoped for a bit more wind n wildlife, but thats Scotland for you - either too much, or none at all !

After Chris departed, we mooched around town in the scorching sun, and about afternoon tea time Anne and Rob arrived from Scarborough. Great to see them again, and after stocking up on beers and treats from Tesco, we were soon heading for the local curry house! We were not disappointed with the food on offer, and fell into bed well fed and watered.

Leg36

Gairloch to Ullapool Weds 1st September
After a day spent in Gairloch, walking the beaches, sampling the local smoked fish for tea, it was time to move north to Ullapool. An oily flat calm day saw us motoring out of the loch, first of all to a spot that the harbour master said was good for mackeral. So we turned the engine off, got the rods out, and within 30 mins had caught 6 mackeral! Chris was really chuffed as he managed to get 3 on one haul - not bad for someone who hasn't been fishing since he was a 'wee lad'!!! So with tea sorted, we headed north!
It was again absolutely stunning scenery, and although to get to Ullapool, its a 10 mile haul up Loch Broom, the Summer Isles and the surrounding hills are lovely to look at on the way past! The wildlife eluded us again, with only the porpoise showing themselves, along with an occasional seal. I was disappointed that Chris didn't get to see anything more exciting.
We arrived at the new visitor moorings in Ullapool just as it started to rain, so after we had sorted tea out, we didn't go ashore, but instead sampled some more of the whisky out of the bonded stores!

Leg 35

Plockton to Loch Gairloch Mon 30th August
We were planning on moving on from Plockton on Sunday, but the wind was blowing hard with gusts of 20mph plus, so we had an extra day moored up. We spent some of the day fishing so at least we had some nice fresh food for tea! We had Pollock and Mackeral for tea, which was a tasty treat.
So we headed off on Monday up the coast. It was beautiful, the way the cloud was shrouding the hills, but as we head out of the loch what little wind there is, is on the nose. We start off in full waterproofs, but as the day goes on, the clouds clear, the wind drops, and the sea becomes glassy flat and calm. The views of the Isle of Skye are stunning, and as we go further north, the enormous hills of the Torridon area appear on the starboard side.
We have a perfect wildlife spotting sea, but unfortunately don't see anything bigger than a porpoise! But there are plenty of those, and my brother Chris takes dozens of pictures of the scenery, with the light being so good.....!
We pull into Loch Gairloch, and head up the loch for the harbour late evening, and it is an absolutely beautiful spot. We are soon showered, and decide to treat ourselves to a meal out, and have a very tasty tea in the Old Inn.
We might not have seen any wildlife, or got a sail out of the day, but the scenery we travelled through is some of the best you can get and more than made up for it!

Leg 34

Mallaig to Plockton Friday 27th August
After a few domestics like showers and shopping, we had a mid morning start, timed to catch the tide as it goes north through the Kyle of Rhea, to the Skye Bridge. The day started sunny, but at mid-day we headed into cloud and rain. We were passing along the shores of Knoydart, which can only be accessed by boat, and is supposed to be one of Britains last true wilderness areas. Well, the hills looked wild enough, but we were surprised at how many houses there were along the shoreside for a 'wilderness' area! It looked very atmospheric with sunlight/clouds scudding across etc! Across the channel we even saw a waterspout - scary to think the damage it could do if we got caught up in that. We made good time to the Kyle of Rhea, and head through the very narrow channel against the tide! Still, we are in no hurry, so we just get more time to look at the scenery! By the time we get to the Skye Bridge its raining hard, so not a time for arty photo's of either bridge or boat, which is a shame, as I think Chris was looking forward to the opportunity of snapping the bridge form a different angle (keen with cameras!)
We headed for Plockton, about 5 miles round the corner, and the rain eases as we approached. The bay is very sheltered and pretty, with some well organised visitor moorings. We were soon tied on to one, cracked open a beer, and sorted tea! Very peaceful end to a bit of a wet day, but hopefully Chris enjoyed his first day on the boat.

P.S. You may have noticed how these photo's are a bit more 'arty' or 'atmospheric' !! I mentioned that Chris is keen with camera's, well, I s'pose I felt a bit more inspired with my pic taking too, with him being so keen, and talking about 'the light' so much!!

Leg 33

Tobermory to Mallaig Weds 25th August
We were going to stay in Tobermory a few nights, but the weather was good, so we headed North. Ardnamurchan Point is a place mentioned so often on the weather forecasts, I was inrigued to see it!! So it was a flat calm day that we headed around the point with the lighthouse. It is exposed to the full force of the Atlantic, and I wouldn't want to get caught there when there was a Westerly blowing! The views were stunning though, with the Small Isles of Muck, Eigg and Rum in all their splendour. We were treated to a real sea wildlife show as we headed North too. A basking shark was having a good feed, which we got some good pics of, porpoise a plenty, common dolphin, and even a Risso's dolphin (got all excited and first thought it was a pilot whale!!).
We arrived in Mallaig late afternoon, to find we are the only visiting yacht. We are soon settled next to the pier, and wandered into town for a quiet beer, and a lovely hot shower at the Fishermans Mission. Its a lovely and warm evening, and the sunset over Skye was worth a picture or two! We are meeting my brother Chris here, as he will join us for a week as we continue our trip North.

Leg 32

Lochaline to Tobermory Tuesday 24th August
The rain and windless weather has been replaced by sun and strong gusting wind, down the Sound of Mull. We head off towards Tobermory but the wind is on the nose and gusting 25mph, so we are content to motor. As we head up the sound we see a couple of yachts that are making their way north under sail. With the gusting wind they intermittently heel right over and are forever tacking. We get to Tobermory well ahead of them! It was a lovely trip up the Sound, and for the first time, not on a dive boat!!
We took a pontoon berth and walked into the town for a beer, of course in the Mishnish! We had been looking forward to a shower too, but unfortunately the new facilities for the boat users were not providing any hot water, so for that treat we will have to wait another day! We tried a new Chinese restaurant in town, but were disappointeed with the meal, so we retired to the boat to chill, and plan our next leg. The forecast is good, so we may keep going North.

Leg 31

Oban to Lochaline. Mon 23rd August
We set off for Lochaline in very low visibility, no wind and rain! Still, we haven't had many wet days so can't really complain - much!
Can't believe that we are going to Lochaline on our own boat rather than on a dive trip! With all the rain the waterfalls off the cliffs are amazing, and as we get to Lochaline the clouds clear and the sun comes out. It turns into a beautiful late afternoon and evening. We take up a mooring alongside the dive boats, and have a relaxing evening, warming up with a wee dram or two! A short hop from Oban, but a lovely trip all the same.

Oban

If you have been watching the TV programme following Timothy Spall going around the UK in a big dutch barge, you might recognise this picture!
We have caught up with them, just before they head off up the Caledonian Canal. Timothy and his wife Shane were on board, but we didn't get chance to meet, and exchange tales of the sea. Oh well, next time..........

Leg 30

Loch Craignish to Oban. Sat 21st August.

We plan to catch the tide going up the Sound of Jura to send us on our way. This means we don't need an early start. Time then to listen to the weather at 0810, and decide if its calm enough. The forecast has almost completely changed from the night before, so its a definite, we are off to Oban! We catch a bit of a shower as we come down the loch (Ivans turn to get wet!), then round the tip, and head North, and almost immediately we pick up the tide. So its foresail up, engine off, and sit back and enjoy the amazing scenery! Its like a panorama on a film, as the landscape all around us, slowly slips past (well, at a respectable 6 or 7 knots). Its stunning. The sun is out, and we don't get any more rain. On one stretch their is a bit of a swell on our stern, which makes it a bit rocky rolly, but small fry compared to the Mull of Kintyre!
We make good time, and pootle in to the marina at Kererra island, Oban about 2.00pm, and have had probably the most comfortable sailing, in the most beautiful of places.
The marina runs a ferry to Oban, and we get the 3.00pm one, and head off to start restocking the larders of food, and beer, ready for the guests we have coming to visit over the next few weeks.




The sea plane landed while we were there......



You can just make out Happy Daze.....its the big green one in the middle!

Leg 29

Ardminish Bay, Gigha to Ardfern, Loch Craignish Weds 18th August

Time to move on. We slip the mooring and we are soon motor sailing. A bit of low cloud over the hills, and as we head out into the Sound of Jura a big cloud comes across from the hills (Paps of Jura), and heavy rain completely flattens the sea - its weird when it does that - feels quite eerie!. Course, its me on watch, and I get a good soaking!! Sun soon comes out, and I dry off. As we approach the entrance to Loch Craignish, the tide is coming across the sound, from the West side, and some powerful current is creating eddies and mini whirlpools, which makes steering interesting briefly! The Loch itself is beautiful and peaceful, with Ardfern nestling at the head in a sheltered spot, where we re-fuel, shower, do laundry and stock up on food. The plan is to stay 24 hrs on the pontoon, move to an anchorage for the next night, then head out with the tide on up to Oban.

Then we get the weather forecast! Not good. Gales off the West coast of Scotland. We move up to the anchorage, a nice sheltered spot, and the wind certainly does get up. The evening forecast is saying force 9, 10 and even 11 in the area we are in. So we resign ourselves to a day at anchor (actually we found a nice secure mooring to use!). We spend all day Friday chilling and reading. The wind is quite high, with a few lulls, and we keep up with the forecasts. By evening, we think the worst has passed, and plan to go the next day.

Gigha

Mon 16th & Tues 17th August

We stayed in Gigha for a couple of days, exploring, beach combing, chilling. A small island community that really reminded us of Eday, so our thoughts start to really wander to our next adventure in life - re-building a croft! We climbed the 'mountain' of Creag Bhan (all of 100m!!) on a sunny day which gave superb views all around the Sound of Jura. Stunning.